Log and Pictures – Thru Aug 31

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

7:30 A.M. Air temperature 8 degrees C, water temperature 7 degrees C.
In Makkovik. Six hours from Hopedale to Makkovik, that’s 50 nautical miles for an average of 8 knots. We usually do 4 or 5. At one time we did 11.4 knots when we slid down a big roller at Cape Makkovik. Winds were forecast to be NW 30 at noon. They were 15 – 20 when we left Hoepdale but they picked-up around 2 PM. So for the last 4 hours we were doing 8 to 9 knots with the wind astern. Steering was hard as the waves push the boat sideways. Exhilarating!

Monday, August 30, 2010

7:30 A.M. Air temperature 7 degrees C, water temperature 5 degrees C.
A windy night. The anchor alarm went off 4 times, a great wake-up at 1,2,3,4 AM or whenever they were. The GPS chartplotter sets off a beeping whenever it thinks the anchor is not holding. In htis case it was the wind changing directions and moving us around at the end of 40 m of chain in 7.5 m of water.

A quick trip, lots of wind, the forecast called for 30 knots ovenight down to 20-25 during the day. With the two of us it’s a lazier day.
Arrived in Hopedale at 4:30 PM.
Had caribou steak at the motel. This is only my third meal in a resturant since Rimouski.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

9 A.M. Air temperature 8 degrees C, water temperature 7 degrees C. Good for keeping food in the bilge. Better than a cooler or refrigerator, never needs ice or power. Though the 15 degree water temperatures like in Hopedale were a problem.
Put the Sigmar diesel cook/heat stove on for a while to warm up the cabin. Shut it off around 1 PM as it sunny and warm.
We installed the new shank Jeremy brought for the Fortress 23 anchor. (Remember we bent it when we were kedging before Sept Isles?) A well designed anchor, a 10 minute job.
Also vacuumed the engine room, cleaned the bilge and checked the bilge pumps.
Have the Honda generator on to recharge the engine and house batteries as well as laptops, handheld VHF radio, power drill and spotlights.
I’m updating this log file and copying pictures form the camera and renaming the pictures on my laptop. Took 3 hours just to write the log.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

7 A.M. Air temperature 6 degrees C, water temperature 5 degrees C.
Anchored in bay south of and between Windy Tickle and Shoal Tickle. Same place I anchored on Aug. 7.
Put the Sigmar diesel cook/heat stove on for a while to warm up the cabin.

Winds 30 knots from Sought and NW forecast for Sunday, so we’ll stay a day here
Went ashore for a bath and to fish. Brook too small to fish. Bathed in a pond where the brook enters the bay. Goota be brave with the cool water and black flies and mosquitoes. Must have needed a bath, the white washcloth took turned brown!
Caught a small char as I was rowing back to the boat, but too small to keep.
An Inuit family with cabin on the bay came by and chatted. They have a 15 foot speed boat and motored here to spend a night at their cabin. The 18 miles from Nain takes then an hour. Most of the day for us!
There’s a polar bear starving and stranded on an island off Hopedale. He warned me to watch out for sharks! A porbeagle shark bit the top of one of the floats for his nets.

Friday, August 27, 2010

Another beautiful day in paradise.
Strong winds in the morning, made 7 knots at times. Of course the winds dies in late afternoon.
Anchored for the night in a little cove on the SW corner of Kasungatak Island. It’s a little open, but has a sand bottom (good for anchoring) and the forecast is for light winds. It was dead calm in the morning.
There were three seals in the cove when we arrived, which suggests good fishing, but not for this fisherman.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Jeremy arrive at 9 on the air Labrador twin Otter from Goose Bay. I picked him up in the Zodiac and back to the boat. No tours of Nain as he has been here several times. We left Nain a couple of hours later.
The wind died down around 5 PM as it’s apt to and we motored to anchor in a cove North of Sentinel Hill on the East end of Palungitak Island (N 56 deg 25.17 minutes, W 61 deg, 36.21 minutes). It’s a little exposed but had good holding for the anchor and worked out.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Received the new fan belt and washers for injector pump at the Post Office. Great service from Viking Power Systems, ordered Friday from St; John’s, received Wednesday. The fan belt was perfect, but the washers were a little too big. I installed both. The new washers reduced the rate of leakage.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

The wind is from the South and I am going South, so I motor via the inner route, through the Rattles to Nain.
I hit a rock in the second rattle at Pierrepont Canal. (there’s no canal here) I was hugging the inside of a turn to avoid the outgoing tidal current. I could see rocks along the shore, but I thought was far enough out. I noticed a big boil in the water in front of me, like there’s gonna be a big rock there. The depth sounder’s depth dropped to 2 m. A loud bang, the bow of the boat came up. Quick plans when through my head in the seconds the bow was in the air; will I be aground in this current, can I kedge off (use the dingy to set and anchor and then haul ourselves off), will she be holed and sink? Luckily there was no damage, she struck on her 7,000 pound iron keel and I had been able to reduce the speed to 2 knots and we were going against the current. I quickly headed to deeper water and relaxed.

Got to Nain around 7:30 PM. and tied-up to the wharf. Big mistake! Groups of kids started appearing and chatting. No big problem with that. I went to bed. Before I was asleep, I heard “Help”, “Save Me”. I got up and dressed and went up on to the wharf, just another group of teenagers. They may need help, but not from drowning! One kid in that dumb idiotic drole teenage way kept asking for “a teabag”, “have you got a teabag”, “I gotta have a tea bag” This was the same guy who was shouting “Help me”. This was enough for me. I motored from the wharf and anchored. Now I could have a safe and good night’s sleep. But I paid for it, I had to anchor in 20 m. of water and haul that chain later.

Nain has good services:
– air service to change crew and receive spare parts.
– coastal boat service once a week and freight service once a week.
– post office
– nursing station
– Innuit carvers selling soapstone carvings.
– two grocery stores which are well stocked and have an excellent variety of foods.
– there’s internet at the motel.
– everyone’s helpful.

Sirens later last night. Learnt the next day the sirens were the ambulance; an Innu visiting was beat-up by four Inuit. Air ambulance was in early the next morning.

But do not stay at the wharf overnight. Sooner or later there’s going to be a serious and perhaps fatal teenager – boater dispute. In fact stay in Nain as little as possible.

Click here for pictures of Medusa Bluffs, waterfalls, Second Rattle and boulders

Monday, August 23, 2010

11 A.M. Air temperature 22 degrees C, water temperature 18 degrees C.
The grey decks are 34 degrees C.
It was great to spend time here by myself but it was time to leave and head South.
As I sailed away, farther out in the bay the seals appeared. Was this their goodbye?
Another warm sunny day’s sail!
Anchored in Percy’s Gulch for the night. It’s a mountain to the S, a 200 m. sand beach and a small island a 100 m. to the North. Not much shelter, very open, but good holding on a calm night.

You may wonder why I spend so much time describing anchorages. Beside food, they are the most important. Remember we spend 12 hours at anchor and most of that asleep. So it’s important to be in a safe anchorage for a restful night’s sleep and to keep the boat safe.

How do we find an anchorage. Usually the previous night we review the planned route for the next day and identify possible anchorages using the Canadian Hydorgraphic Service Sailing directions or the privately published Cruising Guide to Labrador. The Cruising Guide to Labrador is in many ways a better guide as it consists of contributions from small boat sailors who have been this way before and list places that have worked for them, Failing that we explore and pick a cove based upon it’s shape, type of bottom (sand or mud is best) and it’s exposure to the expected wind.

Click here for pictures of rainbows and rain

Sunday, August 22, 2010

What more can I say about another day in paradise.
I hiked up the mountain. Great view. Just me. And of course black flies. I wore a bug jacket, but found it too warm.
All I’ve seen in my days here are a couple of planes and a helicopter.
I cannot get over the beauty of the place. I am speechless each day at it’s beauty.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Cooler this afternoon, light the diesel cook/heat stove and cooked a pan of bannock. It’s great hot with butter and jam!
Then made a fish chowder on the stove with the left over trout, potatoes, carrots, turnip, onions, powered milk and butter. Another great and tasty meal!
The seal visits several times a day. Usually it starts with a loud splash close to the boat to get my attention and then after a couple of cycles of swimming around and a sideways dive, he moves away.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Three seals hung around for an hour. One was more adventurous and teasing. He would come up and splash within a foot of the boat. He was so close I could not see him next to the boat. He had a long yellowish beard. Must have liked mine and wanted a closer look! I got a picture of him as he swam under the boat.

The engine’s injector pump had been leaking diesel oil for the last month. Each night I scoop the fuel from the engine’s drip pan and store it for later use in the Sigmar diesel cook/heat stove.
I used the satellite telephone to order a new fan belt and washers from Viking Power Systems, Mount Pearl (St. John’s, NL). Using the GlobalStar satellite phone is tedious. We have about two 5 – 15 minute connections per hour and times of the connection periods varies. It takes several calls to complete an order. Of if I’m calling a help line, the satellite connection tends to run out as soon as the technician gets my name!

Went ashore for a bath and a little fishing in the brook. It’s called a brook, but even in this dry spell there is more water than the East River (in Stellarton) in late spring. Tried fishing on one side, no luck. Moved to some rocks which split the river, two casts, two trout. Stopped fishing. I can only eat so much.

I had pan fried trout for supper. It’s a great life.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Biggest excitement, a family of ducks swam by. Another sunny and hot day.
Click here for pictures of Tusuiak Bay – a great place to vacation

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Slept most of the day.
Visited several times by a seal. Two of them, a male and a female sun themselves on the end of the sandbar.

Click here for pictures of Tusiuak Bay – a great place to vacation

Click here for pictures of 20100818 Tusiuak bay – seal miscellaneous
Click here for pictures of 20100818 Tusiuak bay – seal cautious
Click here for pictures of Tusiuak Bay – Tusiuak bay – seals beside boat
Click here for pictures of Tusiuak Bay – seal coming closer n diving
Click here for pictures of20100818 Tusiuak bay – seal curious
Click here for pictures of20100818 Tusiuak bay – seal surfacing

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

7:30 A.M. Air temperature 15 degrees C, water temperature 7 degrees C.
Another sunny day in paradise!
Interesting to see lots more sand up here. The South side of Tikatsiagaak Island is sand.

5 PM, it’s 27 degrees C in the cockpit, 25 outsie and the water is 15. had to strip down due to the heat.

Synder Point is the farthest I am going North. I had wanted to get to Hebron and Saglek Fiord. But I did not feel I have enough time to get there and back to Nain in time to meet Jeremy. So I am looking for a sheltered bay where I can spend a few restful days. Found a little cove on the SE end of Tusiuak bay. Water depths are 11 meters at the entrance and all sand bottom till the 2 meter depth. There are rocks on the West and N side, but they are all in shallow water. There’s a high hill to the SW and E and a sandbar protects the bay from NE winds. A great place!
I went aground when I was testing the anchor. Could not get off and the tide was falling. Got off at 11 PM after the tide had risen, No damage as no waves and it’s a sandy bottom.
Anchored in 8.5 m. with a sand bottom and used 40 m. of chain.

Click hre for pictures of Before Tusiuak bay – sand dunes n camps

Click hre for pictures of This is what happens when I’m not careful testing the anchor set.

Monday, August 16, 2010

7:30 A.M. Air temperature 17 degrees C, water temperature 10 degrees C.
A typical day’s sail; great scenery, beautiful weather and solitude!
Lots of snow on the Nottingham Mountains. I’m still amazed of the snow in the hills. Mountains actually, Mount Thorsby is 2,371 feet.
I anchored in Kiglapait Harbour. It’s not a harbour as in a town and wharf, but a 600 m. sand beach with a mountain bown on the S side, sand extending into the hill on the SW side and a hill protecting the NW side. There’s a single abandoned building there.
I went ashore for a bath. Found black bear (or a small polar bear) and fox prints on the shore. I kept a weary watch as I bathed and then walked around. The water coming down the mountain is feed from melting snow and is cold. Lucking I found a small shallow pool where the water runs into the bay and used it as a bathtub. Not quite a hot water, but let’s say invigorating, but nevertheless very enjoyable. More fund and a better view than a shower at home or in a small toilet like on most boat.

Watched a good display of Northern Lights. The same green/white colours, but much sharper now that there’s no lights from a town around.

Pictures Monday. Aug 16,2010 North of Nain, Cape Kiglapait area (spelling is Kiglapait or Kaglapait??)

Notice how it is always sunny in my pictures? That because is has been!

Pictures Monday. Aug 16,2010 North of Nain, Kiglapait Harbour – sand n bear tracks

Pictures Monday. Aug 16,2010 North of Nain, St. John’s harbour n North of Cape Kiglapait Harbour

Sunday, August 15, 2010

5”30 AM, awoken by about ten teenagers on the wharf. They were throwing stuff (pop can, hands of sand, rag, seaweed) onto the boat. They must have been trying to get my attention or goat! What’s fourteen year olds doing ganging around at 5:30 on a Sunday morning.
I dressed and went up on to the wharf. I did not say anything about them throwing stuff onto my boat. Luckily there two minike whales feeding in the bay and close to the wharf. So we all watched the whales. After a while the kids left. On their way they went through some of the speed boats tied to the wharf and then over to the freight yard where they threw whatever they could find into the water. We did not have this problem when the other three boats were here. Maybe safety in number or it’s Sunday morning after Saturday night.
The next week when I returned and was talking to one of them, he said he had thrown the seaweed on the boat. I just said, “I thought it as seagull shit!”.
As well, I stopped an RCMP officer and told him of this incident. He as much as said, “Are you stupid or what to tie-up to the wharf overnight!”. Looks like there’s a lot of problems in Nain.
One whale feed till noon and the other was still there till I left. They would come into and out of the bay surfacing and diving about 10 times on each pass.
The spare fan belts I had were about 3.5 cm too long. I started to make an extension to the alternator arm with some steel I had onboard, but a worker on the road construction drove me to the dump. I scavaged an alternator arm off a junked Ford Bronco. Unfortunately the kids here like to burn the junked vehicles so the selection of spare parts is limited.
I used the scavaged arm to extend the one on the engine and headed North using the middle route. The middle route would mean better winds and less tacking (ie less work for a single-handed sailor).

8:30 P.M. Air temperature 13 degrees C.
Anchored in St. John’s Harbour. (N 54 deg. 46.275 minutes, W 61 deg. 22.202 minutes). The entrance is about 40 feet wide with a least depth of 5 meters. The harbour is about 400 m. long and 100 m. wide with depths of 20 to 40 m. with high hills I anchored in 19 m. That’s a 37 pound anchor and 20 m. of 5/16 chain to pull-up the next morning. Usually I pull 10 to 20 m. at a time and rest while I do another job or eat breakfast.
Heard loud splashes during the night, probably seals.

A whale in Nain, Unity Bay

Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale diving

Sorry the whales in these pictures are a little far away. I never seem to have a camera ready when they pop =-up. All these were taken from the wharf at Nain.

Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale spouting – 6 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale full back
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale full back n closer – 2 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale full back n closer still – 3 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale full back n spouting in distance – 5 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale full diving sequence – 6 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale going away – 5 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale like there sequence – 6 pictures
Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale like there sequence 2 – 8 pictures

Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Whale miscellaneous

Pictures Sunday. Aug 15,2010 Along the way North

Saturday, August 14, 2010

7 A.M. Air temperature 5 degrees C, water temperature 2 degrees C.
Only some areas of this coast in northern Labrador are surveyed. The Canadain Hydrographic Service has surveyed three routes North out of Nain: the inner, middle and outer routes. The inner is the shortest but more restricted and harder to sail.
Headed north by myself. Issuma had starting problems and caught-up later. We were going to go on the inside route thought the Rattles (narrow passages with high hills on each side and rocks along on one side).
The 40 year old Seafarer depthsounder died. We had purchased it used in 1979 when Cathie and I first tried to sail to Labrador. I temporally installed a new Humminbird model 525 fishfinder. I let the boat drift while I wired in the new one. I siliconed the transducer to the inside of the hull. A one hour install!
When Issuma caught up, we spent an hour in light winds taking pictures of each other’s boats under sail. I have lots of pictures taken from this boat, very few of this boat under sail. We then started to motor to Challenger Cove for the night, but I broke a fan belt. Had 4 spares, all identical and all too long. Used one anyway and made I back to Nain.

I forgot to mention, the approach path for the airstrip is over the wharf. The Twin Otters come over at about 100 feet. Exciting to see them diving on us as the come down on their approach.

Pictures Saturday. Aug 14,2010

Friday, August 13, 2010

8 A.M. Air temperature 4 degrees C, water temperature 2 degrees C.
Rested up, bought groceries, did a little work for Michelin and caught-up on e-mail. Plus a shower at Charlie’s.

I went to the Nursing station and weighed myself, 190 pounds. a good weight for me. Down from 205 to 210 before I left. Last year I weighed 215 before I went to Buffalo in July and 188 went I got back in November. Hayward’s weight loss program; lots of weather and sea air, long days, healthy snacks and meals and lots of rest.

I needed fuel so I carried a 20 l jug a kilometer to the fuel depot. There’s no service station, the Woodward fuel depot has a gas and a diesel pump. Roy, the Woodward person working there was most helpful; he gave me a ride back and took the rest of my jugs, as well as Tom’s (from the trimaran) back to the depot for filling.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010
8 A.M. Air temperature 7 degrees C, water temperature 4 degrees C.

Pictures Wednesday. Aug 11,2010

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

9 A.M. Air temperature degrees C, water temperature 4 degrees C.
Cloudy and strong (SE 25 knots) forecast, so I will stay in Nain for the day and catch-up on photo uploads and e-mail.

Met Charlie here. Charlie is a grad student doing research with Parks Canada. He was planning to join the trip from here to Cape Chidley and return if his work permitted. Unfortunately, he can not. However he’s offered Internet and most importantly showers and laundry facilities. Plus he’s offered a supper of char and salad.

3 P.M. today, I hit the wall. Exhaustion set in. Just so as to confirm it, I knew for sure when I was worn-out after picking up a new sail from the post office and carrying the heavy (or it seemed to me) sail back to the boat. Tomorrow’s suspposed to be a good sailing say, but best to stay another day and rest.

It’s been a day of overcast and drizzle here.

Nain’s not a happy place; there have about 8 suicides here this year, mostly persons under 30. Met a couple from Centerville, N.B. (close to my home town) who are here for six moths to do what they can. There a referendum here soon on going dry. Currently the bar is open 4 to midnight and is reputed to be the most profitable in Newfoundland. The beer store only for a couple of hours in the evening.

No pictures of whales or icebergs. I’ve been on an inside passage from Hopedale. There are islands between my route and the Labrador Sea and the off shore islands catch the icebergs. Hard to run the boat and photo whales. So it’ll be mostly scenery.

Met George from Kuujjuaq ( was named Fort Chimo when I lived in Schefferville) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuujjuaq,_Quebec) who is on the joint Inuit and parks Canada management committee for the Torngat Mountains National Park. He says part of the problem of getting people here is the remoteness and concerns about losing tourists to polar bear encounters. I said, “Isn’t that what brings tourists here, remoteness and polar bears?”

Monday, August 09, 2010

5:45 A.M. Air temperature 7 degrees C, water temperature 9 degrees C.
Winds ligh in morning, 4 miles in 3 hours through Tom Geers Run. Had good winds from then till 4, make 5 to 6 knots. Bits of wind come along to tease me. At the Bridges a narrow passage between shallow sides (unusual for her), heavy rain and then good winds. Went through at 6 knots with the tidal current. A little trick as no visual reference and chartplotter lacks detail, but luckily I found a buoy and then the second. Motored last 7 nautical miles to Nain as no wind.

Sailed from 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

3 days solo from Hopedale to Nain; 2 overnights at anchor and 130 nautical miles.

I feel reaching Nain is an accomplishment and I’m elated.

Tssuma, the same boat that was at Hopedale is at Nain. I tied-up alongside. Forgot to mention in the small world category, Richard (), the owner, lived in the Liberty Harbor Marin in New Jersey at the same time as EvenSong was there and he knew the previous owner of EvenSong!

Pictures Monday. Aug 9,2010

Sunday, August 08, 2010

6:30 A.M. Air temperature 8 degrees C, water temperature 3 degrees C.

Had 50 meters of 5/16 chain out as it was windy last night, Took me about 30 minutes to get the chain in and the anchor secured. Takes me about two hours in the morning from the time I get up till sail away. It’s get breakfast, listen for the weather forecast, find and log tides for the day, prepare snacks and lunch, secure all drawers and doors so nothing slides out onto the floor, secure the dingy, get sails ready, shorten anchor line, and start the engine.

Sailed away from the anchor, very quiet, better than motoring.
Took a short-cu across uncharted waters. Only ran into one 10 foot patch of shoal. Fun to see bottom!
had another run in with a whale. Thinks it was a young Orca (killer whale) as it had a lighter patch under and forward of dorsal fin. Whale looked to be 15 to 25 feet long. First time I hear it blow crossed behind me going, right to left, about 30 feet behind the boat. I saw it surface a couple of times. It came back and passed in front of me, left to right. Then is was going away behind and to the left. Next I heard a loud splash to the left and when I looked I saw a boil or upwelling of water about 15 feet across. I then heard it blow to the right. Next thing a noise to the back of the boat and a boil or upwelling right under the end of the boat, under the dingy! You have heard of third time lucky? What will it be the third time and who will be the lucky one?

Anchored in small cove on the NE end of Tikigatsiak Peninsula to West of the start of Tom Geers Run. Just me and the quiet.

Sailed from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Pictures Sun. Aug 8,2010

Saturday, August 07, 2010

7 A.M. Air temperature 13 degrees C, water temperature 12 degrees C.
Off on a solo trip to Nain. Lots of wind, quick day, very busy sailing by myself. In the tickle (narrow channel) 2 miles North of Nain, the water depth is typical of Labrador. The sides are say 50 feet tall and the water depth, one boat length from shore is 90 feet. Just gotta trust the charts. depth sounders are of little use as depth can go from 120 feet to 10 feet in 50 feet. Need independent eyes, one for sailing and one to watch the depth sounder.
Anchored in a small cove South of and between Shoal Tickle and Windy Tickle.
Northern lights were out, a foggy green white colour, not the loud colours one hopes for.

Pictures Sat. Aug 7,2010

Friday Aug. 6,2010
Stayed in Hopedale today. Another beautiful day. 19 deg C. at 9 A.M., water 15 deg. C
Clovis is staying in Hopedale and will catch the coastal boat south for Goose Bay next Thursday. So it’s me alone the crew.

Some examples of food prices:
Cheddar cheese, old flavour, $29.99 / kg
125 gm Kraft Parmesan Grated Cheese, $6.19
340 gm klik $5.09
284 ml Graves Sweet Peas, $1.29
400 gm Cherrios $7.39

Thursday, August 05, 2010, Hopedale
At 7 AM, air 17 deg C, water 12 deg C. Later when sailing, air 21, and I was in T-shirt. Unbelievable weather. I’m sure I’ll pay for it!!! Clovis may leave here, rather than wait till Nain as he does not want to miss the coastal boat.
In Hopedale.
Another sailboat, a 50 foot staysail ketch, at wharf. It was built for Antarctica. Richard, owner, purchased her in France. Sailed to Argentina and to here via NY and St. Johns. Here for repairs. Has 2 other crew, a Romanian (doing documentary on trip to Artic) and Ted from Virginia (professional charter captain along for experience in this part of the world and to improve maintenance skills) . Comfortable inside but not fancy. a step above my primitive, but still like a storage locker. They plan to continue North to Baffin Island and as far west as ice allows. Shared some whiskey, beer and stories.

Did not see any iceberg, whales or seals today and very few seabirds. Probably because we were using an inside passage.

Pictures Aug 5,2010

Wednesday, August 04, 2010, West Turnavik Harbour
Looks like the pattern for the wind the last few days is:
– 6 am – blows like it’ll be a great sailing day
– 8 am – no wind
– 10 am – some wind, do 5 knots at times
– 12 pm – no wind
– 3 wind back.
– 5 pm time to get into harbour, it starts to blow
– 10 pm – dies down
All this despite a forecast of 10 to 20 knots.Better than nothing and a lot better than 30 + knots, rain or continuous fog!

Pictures Aug 4,2010

Tuesday, August 03, 2010 Makkovik

In Makkovik for the morning for Internet and shopping. Lots of activity at the wharf.  3 Newfoundland boats waiting to go out to their turbot nets, 2 crab boats in to unload and the coastal boat arrived at 7 A.M.

Stayed in Makkovik; a Internet, laundry and shopping day. Small can of baked beans $2.56. Small package Kellog Rasin Bran $5.60.  Pricy food, but basics more reasonable.

Met Unkle Jim. Old Makkovik settler family. His great grandfather and his great grandfather’s brother went to London, England from their native Norway to look for work, Got into trouble and were sent to St. John’s. In St. John’s, one was sent to Rigolet and the other to Makkovik. Jim opened first store in 51 and wharf in 67. He has been featured on CBC’s land and Sea for his collection of photos and home movies of Makkovik through the years.

When people at the wharfs ask how far we are going, I say “till the fun runs out”. Though we should stop before then as we have to return!

Pictures Smokey Tickle to Makkovik Aug 3,2010

Monday, August 02, 2010

Slow day to Makkovik. Wind was promising, but died several times. Took 10 hours to go 18 miles. T-shirt and shorts weather in Makkovik. Temperatures in 20’s all the way to Nain

As instructed by Randy we went to Adlavik Inn and met Lori. Lori knew us on sight; not a lot of visitors by sailboat and Randy had called ahead by satellite phone. Loris served us up caribou burgers and fries with berry pie, gratus. The burgers were very tasty, a little sweet.  Turns out Randy and Lori own the Inn. Northern hospitality!

Met M. Kelly at the inn after supper. A man who has seen the North. He’s a plaster and painter by trade and has worked all across the North on DEW line radar sites and various construction sites. He and his wife spend the winder back on the land at their cabin near Hopedale. Tells us, he’s got a generator, washer, dryer and electric heat. Snug as a bug all winter. The year he’s installing satellite internet and phone. A big step over portable satellite phone. Also turns out he’s from Gamba (sp), NL and knows people in New Glasgow I know!

Pictures Aug. 2,2010

Sunday, August 01, 2010

7 A.M., Air 15 deg.  C, water 5 deg C.

Sailed from anchor

Arrived in Rogers Harbour by 4:30 and went ashore. Tons of mussel shells. So let’s have some fresh mussels, no live mussels! Mosquitoes drove Clovis off the Island and back to the boat. We riggred a mosquito next around the cockpit and enjoyed a warm bug free evening.

Pictures Aug. 1,2010

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Air temp 6 deg. C

A tug and barge going south passed us off Cape Harrison.

Argo V, a sailboat I met in Rimouski also passed us. They were returning from Greenland. In the time we took to get here they have been to Greenland and back. News in Hopedale is the’ve returned due to engine or outboard problems! Argo V is from Quebec and Clovis had a long conversation in French over VHF. GOT a comment about our “primitive” conditions as the Argo V owner had toured EvenSong in Rimouski.

Anchored in Webeck Harbour.

Clovis made bannock, but was too tired to wait for it to cook. Great hot with Jam. The Sigmar diesel oil stove is great for stews and slow cooking. Also boils water on high setting. Plus we get warm and dry our gloves.

Pictures July 31,2010

Friday, July 30, 2010

No wind so stay another day. Took a hike to Shakespeare’s Head and some photos. The island is only 200 ft by 100 ft but had a nursing stations and other buildings. Checked out an Eider duck nest.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Sailed off anchor without using the engine.

Felt our way into Smokey Tickle as darkness fell. Chart on chartplotter not detailed so a little exciting. Luckily there was a boat at the wharf with a light. Tied to the wharf of an old service centre in Smokey Tickle. There’s a 35 foot motor boat at the wharf. It was chartered by the Canadian Wildlife Service. They invited us for supper, Oktoberfest sausages and rice. Boat owned by Randy Edmunds of Makkovik. There’s 4 from CWS, 1 Montreal and 3 Goose Bay. Randy gave us a note to a restaurant in Makkovik for Caribou burgers.

Pictures July 29,2010

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Cabin 7 deg. C for breakfast.

Past Cape Nicolas, the wind is off the land and warm. We can smell the sweet scent of flowers on the wind. Likely the smell of the flowers on the berries.

Anchors in Southeast Cove of Isthmus bay at dark. There’s another sailboat here, but did not see anyone till next morning and only as we were leaving.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Wind still too strong, forecast of 30 knots today, NW !5 to 20 knots tomorrow. So here for another day, and a chance to tackle a couple of jobs. Pancakes with raisins for breakfast. Gotta get real maple syrup!

Monday, July 26, 2010

Winds light, very tempted to push on. Gale warning to marine forecast areas to the south. The wharf at The Punchbowl is well protected and we decide to stay. Winds picked-up in mid afternoon and blew strong all night.

We are short of water and bread. I had a shower in the rain and sponged-off with deck water and water collected in a bucket. A 7 deg C shower. Took a while to warm-up. We plugged the deck drains and collected 5 gallons of water for washing and dished. We have 5 gallons of drinking water.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Tied to wharf at old salt shed at Wells Cover, Ship Harbour. Sailing directions reported 10 ft of water at a wharf. Must have been at wrong wharf, because at midnight we hit bottom with our five foot draft. This was 90 minutes before low tide and we continued to touch every so often due to a small swell coming into the harbour. Continued to 2:30 am.

Arrived at The Pucnchbowl, a well protected harbour about ¾ mile in diameter and tied to the old service center wharf. The main wharf is still in good shape. Nothing left here , a horbour where a 100s of fisherman called a summer home. Just a jumble of construction debris left where the buildings were cut-up and removed. Just a few summer shacks left around the bay. We chose this harbour as 30 knot winds are expected for the next two or three days.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Bright and sunny day. several icebergs N of St. Lewis. Several humpback whales between Fishing Islands and Granby Is. We saw them blowing, swimming on the surface and diving for over half an hour. Two swam on the surface across our path a hundred feet in front of us. Exiting. Though we no longer make detours to look at icebergs.

Ran out of East Newfoundland area charts and loaded the Hudson Bay and Strait. It works when we are in the area covered by the charts. Though if we zoom out, we cannot zoom back in. We have to load and other chartset and then reload the Husdson set. Well at least it woks!

Friday, July 22,2010, St. Lewis

Niola Tesa, Belgrade ( 37 ft motor yacht, trawler style) arrived at St. Lewis toady. 3 days from Greenland. They did not have any charts of North America and had run out of water. Local folks very helpful. Within 30 minutes of asking for water, town workers arrived and filled their tanks from a hydrant!

The Lowrance 5200C chartplotter would not zoom in on the Navionics charts for the next leg of the journey. We have two chips of charts, N & #E Canada (2006) and Canada & SE Alaska 2010. The two cards work fine with the Fugawi Marine ENC software on the laptop. Difficult to get Navionics and Lowrance on satellite phone as it only works for 20 minutes out of the hour. It was a trade-off: Iridium satellite phone for $1,600 and $1.50 per minute versus, $500 and $34.95 per month unlimited calling in North America. Had WiFii all day from fish plat at wharf and received some instructions and got it to work once. But would not work after power off and back on.

Stayed at St. Lewis for an extra day to fix but still not zooming.

Clovis was out handlining this afternoon with Roy, easy to catch fish. They went out this evening to lift the net, no fish, though he returned with a bit of iceberg.  We let it melt overnight and used as drinking water. Tastes like water left in the refrigerator too long.

Red Bay to Cartwright

Rimouski to Red Bay


6 responses

6 08 2010
Nick Entract

Fascinating reading David, thanks and keep it coming.

My Halb will be back in the water on Monday 9th (aug) and we are off to France and Channel Isles. Home of the 40ft tidal range and 5 kt tides !

All best, Nick [Halberdier ‘Fairweather’]

6 08 2010
alice and richard

thanks for sharing these stories!!
safe sailing and enjoy!!!!

6 08 2010
Nancy Hayward

Just like reading a book, hint,hint. Thanks for tour of the North.

6 08 2010

It sounds like a wonderful trip. I’m glad you are having such an adventure. . . really enjoying the updates!

11 08 2010
Nancy Hayward

David, I can’t see your pictures. Do I have to go into another site.

12 08 2010
tom mccrorie


The scenery reminds me of the Hebrides in scotland. Great tales of your trip. I’m not so keen on sailing in 7C with the water at 4C – here in Scotland, even in Winter the sea rarely gets below 10c. At the moment we are basking in 18C air and 15C sea but we have few whales apart from harbour porpoises and the rarer common dolphin or minky whale. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

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